Here were the hotels, with other illuminated boats in front of their steps, whence spoiled voices shouted, "Santa Lucia," till even Venice and the Grand Canal became a vulgarity and a weariness. These were the "serenate publiche," common and commercial affairs, which the private serenata left behind in contempt, steering now music 53 their flaring lights for the dark now music 53 of romance which lay beyond. Otherwise, darkness, soundless motion, and, overhead, dim stars. Some one for the amusement of the guests of Venice was experimenting on the top of the campanile of St.